COVHERlab « Twentythree » Fall Winter 12/13

by Lash Magazine

The collection « Twentythree » arises from a need for sincerity in which, like in a flashback through the past experiences, it gathers the most important and recognizable structures of the COVHERLAB universe structuring a formal rigor and a cleanliness in construction that cite Italian Rationalism architecture of the early twentieth century as a natural tribute, not a researched one.

The silhouette is compacted in the clothes in which the dialogue between interior and exterior, between what is inside and then brought out and what is outside and penetrates the inside, becomes a necessity not to hide the value and beauty of the garments stratified underneath the outerwear, now brought to the surface as a detail that structures the outfit and determines the direction of sense.

The collection finds stagnation in a highly tailored dimension with a masculine matrix (flannel, worsted wool and grisaille) for trousers and outerwear, which are made with a dynamic form of vertical doubled panels that can be opened, partially incorporated into the cut-outs of the tops conceived as a macro buttonholes in which the coat flows and adheres to achieve the structure of a single block.

The cut-out element is a clear echo that continues in the pants, often characterized by bicolour inserts and embossing, leaving parts of the leg uncovered when in movement, exacerbated by the grosgrain fringe elements of the skirts, structured also with yoke waistbands, attached pockets and contrasts of two-dimensional patterns.

The technical textiles have sturdy textures: doubled Napa, Neoprene, coated and waterproof fabrics interact naturally, without too much contrast, with the classical and harmonic dimension of sartorial fabrics in a neutral palette that evolves from white and ivory into nude and dove tones to touch the multitudes of gray (medium, clay, silver, platinum), brown, hazelnut, blue and black. Ultra-lightweight tops, maxi blouses and dresses, with silk and silk taffeta, embossed and vibrant two-dimensional patterns.